The Tushetians lead quite a nomadic lifestyle. In the winter, most move to the lowland area of Kakheti. The Tushetians were granted land in these parts by a Kakhetian king as a token of the great courage they displayed in repelling successive Persian invaders. The king knew of the industry and perseverence of the Tushetians and gave them the fertile marshlands in the hope that this hardworking people would turn these lands into productive valleys. Today the land is a source of sustenance for the Tushetians. Of all the regions of Georgia, Tusheti is the most ecologically unspoilt, and the Tushetians take pride in their home-grown food. A tribal system survived in Tusheti until the end of the 17th century. This social system best suited the lifestyle of these proud free-spirited mountain people. No means of coercion were necessary for this system to function it worked purely on public opinion. The strength of words and opinions still dominate Tushetian life. Day 1: arrival in Tbilisi; Day 2: Tbilisi - Alvani By travelling through Kakheti we will arrive at the Tushetian village of Alvani. Tushetian villages are situated along the eastern bank of the River Alazani. To the north, they are bordered by the high Caucasian mountains. It is in Alvani, this magnificent site situated on the boundary of plentiful Kakheti and remote Tusheti that we will sojourn for the night and enjoy traditional Tushetian cuisine. Day 3: Alvani-Shtrolta The distance between Alvani and Shtrolta is only 61 kilometres. But brace yourselves! We climb higher and higher up a winding dirt track on which no cars were seen until 1978. After a strenuous journey of two and a half hours and having crossed the Koja Pass, altitude 3,000m, we will leave civilisation behind us for a week. The valleys of Kakheti disappear into the green behind us and ahead lies Tusheti, the shrouded mystery of Georgia, waiting to be discovered. Day 4: Shtrolta - Omalo - Shenako - Diklo Omalo is the economic centre of Tusheti where the only airport, boarding school and hospital in the region are located. On our way to Omalo, we see our first Tushetian tower. These towers used to function as fortifications as well as places of worship. From Omalo, we continue to the village of Shenako. The technique of building houses without foundations is unique to Tusheti. We will see one such house from the nineteenth century belonging to the aunt of our guide Mari. We continue our trip to the village of Diklo, where we stay overnight in the Camp. Day 5: Diklo - Chigho - Dartlo - (Pirikita Tusheti gorge) This will be one of our busiest days. After 3-4 steady hours of climbing mountain paths, we will cross the Sonekhi Pass (2550 m.) and descend to the village of Chigho (2400 m.) renowned for its "Lasharoba" festival. Lashari was a fighting deity whose banner led the Tushetians into war. From Chigho we will return to the village of Dartlo (1666 m.) where we will spend the night in the Camp. Day 6: Dartlo - Jvarboseli - Tsovata - Shtrolta (Gometsri gorge) This will be our last day in Tusheti. We will drive through the wooded Gometsari Gorge and have dinner in the village of Jvarboseli. Here, a contest is held annually where young men from different valleys meet and compete in horse riding, wrestling, dancing and singing. In the nearby Tsovati Gorge we will have a chance to explore tombs dating from the 1700s. An epidemic in this period completely wiped out some of the villages in the region. Many of those who contracted the plague voluntarily isolated themselves in these tombs. Allegedly some of the sick even recovered as a result of their enforced starvation. Towards evening we will return to Shtrolta, where our journey into the past begins. Memories of velvety mountains, the blue Alazani towers perched on cliffs and the open-hearted Tushetians will merge into the softness of the night to melodic accordion playing and mournful singing voices. Day 7: Shtrolta-Tbilisi Day 8: departure Note:
|